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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.