Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
